Restaurant review

Impressed by pizza in Copenhagen, who would have thought?

“I still remember vividly its heavenly pizza crust. When I took a bite, it was absolutely to-die-for”, these were the original words from a friend who recommended Bæst pizza to me.

This slightly exaggerated description and its distinction of the second-best pizza in Europe piqued my interest in discovering this restaurant specializing in PIZZAS in Copenhagen. To be honest, I approached with skepticism. After all, Denmark’s most common carbs, Rugbrød—a vegan, extremely dense bread made of rye flour and various grains— looks and tastes rather unremarkable (no offence, just my subjective opinion). Naturally, I questioned their proficiency in making other breads. However, dining at Baest from shortly after ten in the evening until almost closing time, I kept encountering delightful culinary surprises!

*50 Top Pizza , the world’s first restaurant ranking for pizzas based on a series of standards including food quality, service, wine list, environment, etc.

The Nørrebro area where BÆST is located is known for its cool vibes and diversity – picture a bottle of sparkling water that has been shaken and opened – explosive vibrancy. Inside BÆST, the dim, warm lights, wooden tables, and rustic brick walls create an unpretentious environment. I immediately knew it is a place to enjoy pizzas with your hands without worrying of being judged. From the massive pizza oven and semi-open kitchen at center, the sounds of chefs busily preparing meals can be heard. Blending with the lively conversations of guests, sounds contribute to an engaging dining experience.

The restaurant owner and chef, Christian Francesco Puglisi, once explained that BÆST is inspired by Italian cuisine, but it is by no means a purely Italian restaurant. With the core concept of “making everything from scratch,” BÆST aims to highlight the flavor of Danish local and seasonal ingredients through a variety of homemade Italian cured meats, cheeses, pizzas, etc.

It is always difficult to decide what to order when dining solo. Pizza is a must, but I also wanted to try BÆST’s homemade sausages, ham, mozzarella. So, I opted for a seven-course tasting menu. BÆST’s tasting menu is designed for two people to share a pizza and other side dishes, but the restaurant readily accommodated by adjusting the portion size for a single diner. I like their flexibility.

The sweet pea cold soup did not impress me at first glance. However, after taking a sip, I couldn’t stop praising its exuberant Spring flavors! Just a couple of drops of cool mint oil enhanced the natural sweetness of the peas. A small amount of horseradish brought a subtle spiciness, and the homemade yogurt floating in the cold soup made it smooth and balanced overall. The soup had the texture of a thinner pea puree, the thickness was just right. I think achieving such a complex taste in a cold soup is no easy feat.

The first floor of BÆST restaurant are the in-house dairy and butcher ateliers. They only use organic pork meat from HindsholmGrisen farm and organic milk from Svanholm farm. The hand-pulled mozzarella balls were a little too solid and salty for my taste, but the Stracciatella cheese was perfect – extremely smooth with an ultra creamy aroma. Just a touch of olive oil and black pepper provided a wonderful contrast, while the peas and mint on top were optional. The homemade Italian sausage and ham also revealed umami-rich taste, but not quite distinct from Italian cold cuts you would get elsewhere.

Amazing asparagus! The nutty aroma of browned butter complemented the crunchy hazelnuts, the earthy flavors blended well with the subtle tangy taste from lemon olive oil and pickled shallots. When the super fresh raw egg yolk sprinkled with sea salt was cut open, the egg yolk liquid and buttery sauce mixed together, creating an irresistible dipping sauce for the homemade sourdough bread (at mirabelle bakery, owned by the same chef).

I believe that dishes with simple ingredients always better reflect the expertise of chefs, so I ordered a pizza with tomato sauce, garlic, oregano, and fresh house made Stracciatella. The crust, made of pure sourdough starter, is extraordinary. The active starter culture made with only flour and water, requires more time and a stricter environment to ferment and “grow” compared to packed yeast you can get from supermarkets. As a result, BÆST’s crust has a much richer, more complex flavor than that made of ordinary yeast.

The pizza was baked briefly at 450 degrees Fahrenheit until the crust was slightly crispy and browned. Its inside remains soft yet chewy when eaten. It had a slightly sweet caramel taste at first, developing into an earthiness taste with each chew. Meanwhile, the flavors of natural tomato sauce on top just burst in your mouth, as if biting into a ripe and juicy heirloom tomato. Combined with the melt-in-your-mouth, silky smooth Stracciatella cheese, as well as the subtle garlic flavor, the pizza was definitely well executed and utterly heavenly!


  • Based on May 29 dining experience only.
  • A 7-course tasting menu at BÆST costs 395 dkk.

Noma Copenhagen: savor nature, savor life

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